Twill is one of the three fundamental types of textile weaves, distinguished by its characteristic diagonal parallel ribs, known as a “wale.” Twill’s structure is created by passing the weft (crosswise) thread over one or more warp (lengthwise) threads and then under two or more warp threads, with a step, or offset, between rows. This construction method makes twill fabrics notably durable, opaque, and allows them to drape well, making them a staple for products ranging from denim jeans to high-end apparel and upholstery.
Understanding twill is a key part of working with textiles. This weave stands alongside plain weave and satin weave as a cornerstone of fabric construction. While each weave offers unique properties, the combination of strength and versatility in twill has cemented its role in both fashion and functional applications. At Canvas Etc., our expertise extends across all durable woven fabrics. This guide provides the foundational knowledge needed to recognize, select, and utilize the ideal twill for any project.
Key Takeaways
- Twill is a category of weave, not a material, identified by a diagonal pattern.
- The weave structure makes twill strong, durable, and good at hiding stains.
- Denim, Chino, and Herringbone are all popular types of twill fabrics.
- Twill is softer and drapes better than canvas, while canvas is a plain weave known for its rugged stiffness.
- Common uses for twill include jeans, trousers, jackets, and upholstery.

History of the Twill Weave
The twill weave is an ancient weaving technique with origins dating back thousands of years.
Archaeological evidence suggests its use in various forms across Europe and Asia. The weave’s inherent strength and durability made it a practical choice for functional clothing and textiles. Its prominence grew substantially during the Industrial Revolution, when mechanized looms allowed for the mass production of complex textiles. This era saw the rise of specific twills like denim and serge, which became workwear standards due to their resilience.
How Can You Identify a Twill Weave?
You can identify a twill weave by looking for a distinct pattern of diagonal lines or ribs, called wales, running across the surface of the fabric.
This pattern is the definitive visual identifier of a twill. The weave’s structure differs from the simple checkerboard pattern of a plain weave. The offset interlacing of the twill weave creates this unique texture. The direction of the diagonal can be either to the right, which is a right-hand twill or Z-twill, or to the left, which is a left-hand twill or S-twill. Denim is a fabric that is most famously a right-hand twill.
How Is Twill Fabric Constructed?
Twill is constructed by passing a weft yarn over one or more warp yarns and then under two or more warp yarns, with an offset between each row to create the diagonal pattern. For a deeper look into general fabric construction, our guide on how fabrics are made provides excellent context.
- Warp Yarns: These yarns are held in tension on a loom and run lengthwise.
- Weft Yarns: These yarns are woven through the warp yarns and run crosswise.
- The “Float”: The portion of a yarn that crosses over two or more perpendicular yarns is a float. Twill exhibits high tear resistance. This property results from its tight weave structure and the high thread counts this float system allows.
- Weave Notation: This structure is often described with a fraction like 2/1 or 3/1. A “2/1 twill” means the weft yarn goes over two warp yarns and under one.

What Are the Key Characteristics of Twill?
The primary characteristics of twill fabric are its exceptional durability, opacity, good drape, and its ability to hide soil and stains due to its textured surface.
In fabric stress tests, a standard 10 oz cotton twill showed a 15% greater resistance to diagonal tearing than a plain weave of the same weight, confirming its structural integrity.
- Durability: The tight weaving process makes twill highly resistant to tearing and fraying.
- Opacity: A high thread count makes the fabric opaque, which is ideal for pants and jackets.
- Shows Less Dirt: The uneven surface and texture help hide soil and stains better than smooth-surfaced fabrics.
- Good Drape: Twill is more pliable and drapes better than plain weaves of similar weight. This makes it suitable for clothing and curtains.
- Wrinkle Resistance: The fabric is less prone to wrinkling than many other fabrics due to the structure of the weave.
What Are the Main Types of Twill Fabric?
The main types of twill are defined by the material used and the specific variation of the weave, with the most common examples being Denim, Chino, Herringbone, and Gabardine.
What is Denim?
Denim is a rugged, warp-faced cotton twill where the warp yarn is dyed (typically indigo) and the weft yarn is left white. This process creates the classic blue-on-the-outside, white-on-the-inside look of jeans. For projects requiring similar ruggedness, a heavy-duty bull denim is an excellent material. For applications where a classic denim look is desired with the properties of canvas, a 10oz duck canvas in a denim hue offers a unique alternative.
What is Chino?
Chino is a lightweight cotton twill that is typically piece-dyed, resulting in a solid color on both sides. This fabric is softer and lighter than denim. For projects like lightweight jackets or structured trousers where chino might be used, a lightweight 7 oz. duck canvas is a durable alternative we recommend.
What is Herringbone?
Herringbone is a twill where the direction of the diagonal reverses at regular intervals. This reversal creates a distinctive “V” or broken-zigzag pattern that resembles the skeleton of a herring fish.
What is Gabardine?
Gabardine is a tightly woven, warp-faced twill with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and a smooth back. Thomas Burberry invented this fabric in 1879, a development documented by fashion historians at institutions such as the Victoria and Albert Museum. Traditionally made of wool with thread counts exceeding 200 per square inch, it is known for being durable and water-resistant.
How Does Twill Compare to Other Weaves?
Comparing twill to other fundamental weaves clarifies its unique properties. Twill is generally more durable, softer, and has a better drape than a basic plain weave, but is less lustrous and has a more pronounced texture than a satin weave.
Feature | Twill Weave | Plain Weave (e.g., Poplin) | Satin Weave | Canvas (Heavy Plain Weave) |
---|---|---|---|---|
Pattern | Distinct diagonal ribs (wale) | Simple checkerboard (1/1) | Smooth, lustrous surface | Simple checkerboard (often 2/1) |
Durability | Very High | Good | Moderate (snags easily) | Extremely High |
Drape | Good | Moderate to Stiff | Excellent (fluid) | Stiff |
Wrinkle Resistance | Good | Prone to wrinkling | Very Good | Prone to wrinkling |
Feel / Texture | Textured but pliable | Crisp or soft | Smooth, silky | Coarse, rugged |
Common Uses | Jeans, jackets, trousers | Shirts, quilting, sheeting | Formalwear, linings | Tents, bags, sails, workwear |
What is the Difference Between Twill and Canvas?
The fundamental difference between these two fabrics is the weave. Canvas is a type of heavy-duty plain weave, defined by a simple over-one, under-one criss-cross pattern. Twill is a diagonal weave, with its characteristic over-two, under-one (or similar) pattern creating diagonal ribs. Our expertise in differentiating duck canvas from regular canvas helps inform this comparison.
Both fabrics are exceptionally durable. The strength of canvas is in its ruggedness and resistance to tearing under brute force. The durability of twill is combined with flexibility and resistance to soiling and wear over time in apparel. Canvas is stiff, coarse, and ideal for applications where structure and sheer strength are needed, such as our #1 heavy-duty canvas duck. Twill is softer, more pliable, and drapes better, making it the preferred choice for most clothing items.

What Are the Most Common Uses for Twill?
The balanced properties of twill make it extremely versatile, with its most common uses being in durable apparel like jackets and coveralls, workwear, and home furnishings such as upholstery and curtains.
- Apparel: Jeans and Trousers (Denim, Chino), Jackets and Outerwear (Drill, Gabardine).
- Workwear: For the ultimate in durability and weather resistance for workwear projects like mechanic’s jackets, materials like waxed Army duck canvas can elevate a project beyond what standard twills offer.
- Home Furnishings: Upholstery for sofas and chairs, curtains, and cushion covers. When selecting a material, choosing the perfect upholstery fabric is a process that requires matching durability with aesthetics. A variety of dyed and numbered duck canvas fabrics offer excellent strength and a range of colors for these applications.
- Accessories: Tote bags, backpacks, hats, and caps.
What is the Environmental Impact of Twill?
The environmental impact of twill fabric is determined by its fiber source.
Twill made from natural fibers like organic cotton is biodegradable and comes from a renewable resource. Its cultivation, however, can be water-intensive. In contrast, twill made from synthetic fibers like polyester is derived from petroleum, a non-renewable resource. Polyester production is less water-intensive than cotton farming, but it is not biodegradable and can contribute to microplastic pollution when laundered.
Twill Fabric: What Are the Pros and Cons?
The main advantages of twill are its durability, versatility, and resistance to soiling, while its primary disadvantages can include its heavier weight compared to some fabrics and a higher cost.
Pros | Cons |
---|---|
✅ Exceptionally durable and strong | ❌ Can be heavier than plain weaves |
✅ Hides stains and soil well | ❌ More complex to weave, can be more expensive |
✅ Good drape and pliability | ❌ Lighter-weight twills may not be ideal for summer |
✅ Resists wrinkles effectively | ❌ Specific types like denim require special care |
How Should You Care For Twill Fabric?
Most twill fabrics, especially those made of cotton, can be machine washed in cool or warm water and tumble-dried on a medium setting, but you should always check the specific care label.
- Washing: Turn dark-colored twills like denim inside out to prevent fading.
- Drying: Remove from the dryer promptly to minimize wrinkling.
- Ironing: Iron on the reverse side of the fabric to prevent flattening the wale or creating a shine.
From our experience at Canvas Etc., when sewing heavy twill like a 12oz bull denim, we recommend switching to a denim needle (size 100/16 or 110/18) and increasing your stitch length to 3.0mm. This prevents skipped stitches and needle breakage that can occur with a standard setup.

Twill Weave Fabric Definitive Overview
Twill is a fundamental textile weave recognized by its diagonal ribs. This structure provides high durability, good drape, and natural wrinkle resistance, making the fabric a versatile choice for apparel, workwear, and home decor. Common types of twill include denim, chino, and herringbone. It differs from canvas, which is a plain weave, by having more flexibility and a softer texture for similar weights.
Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Project
Now that you understand the properties and benefits of twill, you can better decide if it is the right choice for your project. For applications requiring extreme ruggedness or structure, explore our wide selection of cotton duck canvas. For projects demanding durability with a softer feel, a heavy cotton fabric may suit your needs. We encourage you to browse our full inventory to find the perfect material.

About This Guide
This guide was written and reviewed by the fabric experts at Canvas Etc., who have over 30 years of collective experience sourcing and supplying high-performance textiles for creators and industrial partners.