Viscose fabric is a semi-synthetic textile made from regenerated cellulose, which is sourced from wood pulp. This material, often referred to as viscose rayon, is prized in the fashion and home goods industries for its silk-like feel, excellent drape, and vibrant color retention. Its durability and sustainability profile present key considerations for any project.
In our work supplying a wide range of textiles, we frequently see designers select viscose for its exceptional drape in apparel. We also see them turn to our durable cotton duck canvas or denier polyesters when their projects demand structural integrity that viscose cannot provide. Understanding this trade-off is the key to a successful project. To experience the unique textures of these materials firsthand, you can always order fabric samples.
Key Takeaways:
- Alternatives: Cotton canvas offers superior durability, while polyester provides better strength and water resistance.
- Source: Viscose is made from regenerated cellulose from wood pulp.
- Feel: Its primary attributes are softness and a fluid drape.
- Weaknesses: The fabric is weak when wet and is prone to wrinkling and shrinking.
- Sustainability: Its eco-friendliness is conditional on responsible sourcing (FSC certification) and modern, closed-loop production methods (like those used for Lyocell).

How Is Viscose Produced?
Viscose is produced through a chemically intensive process that transforms wood pulp into a soluble compound. This compound is then filtered, extruded through a spinneret into a chemical bath, and spun into regenerated cellulose fibers.
The Viscose Production Process: A Step-by-Step Breakdown
The production of viscose rayon follows a specific manufacturing sequence. Each step modifies the natural cellulose into a fiber suitable for textiles.
- Cellulose Extraction: The process starts with wood pulp from sources like beech, pine, or bamboo trees. This material is harvested and purified to extract its core component, cellulose.
- Alkali Treatment: The extracted cellulose is steeped in sodium hydroxide, also known as caustic soda. This chemical treatment converts the cellulose into alkali cellulose, preparing it for the next stage.
- Xanthation: The alkali cellulose is then treated with liquid carbon disulfide. This step creates cellulose xanthate, which is a viscous, honey-colored solution. The name “viscose” originates from the high viscosity of this intermediate liquid.
- Ripening & Filtering: The viscose solution is allowed to mature in a stage known as “viscose ripening” and is filtered to remove any undissolved impurities. This action results in a clean, uniform solution for extrusion.
- Extrusion & Regeneration: The clean viscose solution is forced through a spinneret, a device with many tiny holes, into a bath of sulfuric acid. The acid bath regenerates the liquid into solid cellulose filaments.
- Finishing: The resulting filaments undergo “filament drawing,” a stretching process that aligns the polymers for strength. The filaments are then washed, cut, and spun into yarn for weaving or knitting into viscose fabric.
What Key Chemicals Are Used in Making Viscose?
The viscose process relies on several industrial chemicals, and their management is a central factor in the fabric’s environmental profile.
- Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda): This chemical swells the cellulose fibers, making them receptive to subsequent chemical reactions.
- Carbon Disulfide: This compound is a highly toxic and flammable chemical essential for creating the soluble viscose solution. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) notes that long-term exposure can cause serious health effects, making strict workplace and emission controls necessary.
- Sulfuric Acid: This acid is used in the final regeneration bath to solidify the liquid viscose solution back into solid cellulose filaments.
What Are the Defining Properties of Viscose Fabric?
Viscose is defined by its exceptional softness and fluid drape, similar to silk. It is also characterized by its low strength when wet and its tendency to wrinkle and shrink if not cared for properly.
Advantages of Viscose (Pros)
- Soft & Silk-Like Feel: The fabric offers a luxurious, smooth texture, making it a common choice for apparel where comfort against the skin is a priority.
- Excellent Drape: Viscose fabric flows and hangs gracefully, a property that makes it ideal for creating flowing dresses, blouses, and skirts.
- Highly Breathable: Its cellulosic structure is porous, allowing air to circulate and making it a comfortable material for clothing in warm weather.
- Very Absorbent: The material wicks moisture away from the skin, which enhances comfort but also contributes to the fabric’s weakness when wet.
- Vibrant Color Retention: Viscose fibers absorb dye easily, resulting in deep, rich colors that do not fade quickly.
Disadvantages of Viscose (Cons)
- Low Wet Strength: Viscose can lose up to 50% of its tensile strength when saturated with water. This loss in strength occurs because water molecules penetrate the amorphous regions of the regenerated cellulose fibers and disrupt the internal hydrogen bonds that hold the polymer chains together, reducing the material’s integrity.
- Prone to Wrinkling: The fabric wrinkles easily from compression and wear, typically requiring ironing to maintain a smooth appearance.
- Susceptible to Shrinkage: The material can shrink significantly, especially when exposed to heat from hot water or a machine dryer.
- Can Mildew: Its high absorbency can lead to mildew growth if stored in damp conditions. Knowing how to prevent and treat mildew is a valuable skill for maintaining many types of fabrics.

Is Viscose a Sustainable Fabric?
The sustainability of viscose is complex and depends entirely on the manufacturer’s sourcing and chemical management practices. While it originates from a renewable, biodegradable source (wood), the conventional production process involves toxic chemicals and can contribute to deforestation.
The Case Against Viscose: Deforestation and Chemical Pollution
- Deforestation: Sourcing wood pulp from uncertified, ancient, or endangered forests is a primary concern. The non-profit organization Canopy’s Hot Button Report tracks the risk of controversial forest fibers in the viscose supply chain, showing that a significant portion of global production remains at high risk.
- Chemical Pollution: Improper disposal of carbon disulfide and other chemicals can severely pollute local air and water, posing a risk to ecosystems and the health of factory workers.
The Connection Between Production and Sustainable Alternatives
The use of carbon disulfide in the conventional viscose process is directly linked to significant health and environmental risks. This specific chemical’s toxicity necessitates the development of alternative methods, which led directly to the creation of the Lyocell process. Lyocell’s use of a less-toxic amine oxide solvent in a closed-loop system is a direct response to the shortcomings of the original viscose manufacturing chain.
The Case For Viscose: Renewable and Biodegradable
- Plant-Based Origin: The raw material for viscose is renewable wood pulp. This contrasts with fully synthetic fabrics like polyester, which are derived from petroleum. Exploring the benefits of sewing with natural fabrics provides greater context on why plant-based sources are often preferred.
- Biodegradability: Under the right composting conditions, viscose fabric will biodegrade, breaking down much faster than synthetic plastics like polyester or nylon.
How to Identify More Sustainable Viscose
- Look for Certified Sources: Choose fabrics made with pulp from forests certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) or the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC).
- Choose Brands with Closed-Loop Processes: Seek out manufacturers like Lenzing AG, whose TENCEL™ branded Lyocell and Modal fibers are produced in a system that recycles over 99% of its water and solvents.
- Check for Certifications: Look for the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 label, which certifies that the final product is free from harmful levels of over 100 toxic substances.
How Does Viscose Compare to Other Fabrics?
Viscose offers a balance of natural-fiber breathability and synthetic-fiber smoothness, but it lacks the durability of cotton and polyester. Its primary role is as a cost-effective, silk-like alternative for apparel, whereas cotton and polyester excel in applications requiring strength and resilience.
Detailed Fabric Comparison Table
Feature | Viscose | Cotton | Polyester | Silk |
Source | Wood Pulp | Cotton Plant | Petroleum | Silkworm |
Feel | Very Soft, Silky | Crisp, Soft | Smooth, Synthetic | Extremely Soft, Smooth |
Durability | Low (especially wet) | High | Very High | Moderate |
Breathability | High | High | Low | High |
Best For | Dresses, Blouses, Linings | Apparel, Bags, Upholstery | Activewear, Bags, Outdoor Gear | Luxury Apparel, Scarves |
Care | Delicate, Hand Wash | Easy, Machine Washable | Very Easy, Wrinkle Resistant | Delicate, Dry Clean |
Product Example | N/A | 10 oz. Cotton Duck Canvas | 600 Denier Polyester | N/A |
When Should You Choose Cotton or Polyester Instead of Viscose?
- Choose Cotton: You should choose cotton, like the duck canvas we specialize in, when your project requires high durability, structure, and abrasion resistance. Cotton is ideal for tote bags, upholstery, workwear, and artist canvases, where viscose would tear or wear out quickly. For a complete overview of this sturdy material, consult a beginner’s guide to cotton duck. If you are considering furniture, you may want to learn how to choose the perfect upholstery fabric for your needs, where a material like our #1 Heavy Duty Duck Fabric is a superior choice.
- Choose Polyester: You should choose polyester when you need exceptional strength, water resistance, and resistance to stretching or shrinking. It is perfect for backpacks, outdoor equipment, banners, and protective covers, where viscose would fail when exposed to moisture and stress. Learning about the differences between nylon and polyester can help you select the right synthetic. For projects demanding maximum toughness, a material like 1050 Denier Ballistic Nylon offers performance that viscose cannot match.
How Is Viscose Different From Cupro?
While both are types of regenerated cellulose, viscose is different from cupro. Cupro, also known by the brand name Bemberg, is derived from cotton linter, the short waste fibers left on cotton seeds after ginning. It is produced using the cuprammonium process, which is generally considered less harsh than the viscose process, resulting in a fine, silky, and breathable fiber often used for high-quality linings.

What Are the Main Types of Viscose Rayon?
The main types of viscose rayon are standard viscose, Modal, and Lyocell. Modal and Lyocell are considered next-generation versions with improved properties and more sustainable production processes.
- Viscose (Standard): This is the first generation of the fiber. It is the most common and affordable type and has the properties described throughout this guide. In the apparel industry, it accounts for approximately 6.5% of all fiber usage.
- Modal: This is the second generation, classified as a “High-Wet-Modulus (HWM) rayon.” This means it is stronger when wet and more dimensionally stable than standard viscose. It is known for being exceptionally soft and is often used in underwear, t-shirts, and bed linens.
- Lyocell: This is the third generation, best known by the brand name TENCEL™. Lyocell is made using a more direct and non-toxic solvent spinning process in a closed-loop system. This production method makes it the most eco-friendly option in the rayon family. It is strong, soft, and wrinkle-resistant.
How Should You Care for Viscose Fabric?
You should care for viscose fabric gently to prevent shrinking and damage, especially when it is wet. Hand washing in cold water is the safest method. Air drying is recommended over machine drying. These care instructions align with the U.S. Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC) requirements for permanent care labeling on textiles, which guide consumers on proper maintenance.
Washing, Drying, and Ironing Instructions
- Washing: Hand wash the fabric in cool water with a mild detergent for best results. If you use a machine, select the delicate cycle, place the item in a mesh bag, and use only cold water.
- Drying: You should not put viscose in a machine dryer. The heat will cause it to shrink. Gently squeeze out excess water from the garment without wringing it. Lay the item flat on a clean towel or hang it to air dry away from direct sunlight.
- Ironing: Turn the garment inside out before ironing. Use the lowest heat setting on your iron, often labeled “Silk.” Iron while the fabric is still slightly damp to remove wrinkles more easily, placing a press cloth between the iron and the fabric to prevent shine marks.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is viscose better than cotton?
The choice depends on the use case. Viscose has better drape and a silkier feel, which makes it superior for flowing garments. Cotton is far more durable and versatile, which makes it better for everyday wear, bags, and home goods that require strength.
Does 100% viscose shrink?
Yes, 100% viscose is highly prone to shrinking. This happens most often when it is exposed to heat from hot water or a machine dryer.
Is viscose stretchy?
Viscose itself is not a stretchy fiber. Manufacturers often blend it with a small percentage of elastane (spandex) to add stretch to the final fabric.
Is viscose a cheap fabric?
Viscose is generally more affordable than natural fibers like silk and some high-quality cottons. It is often considered a higher quality and more comfortable alternative to polyester.
Viscose Fabric Summary of Key Characteristics
Viscose is a semi-synthetic fabric derived from wood pulp. It is known for a silk-like feel, excellent drape, and high breathability, making it popular for clothing like dresses and blouses. Its main weaknesses are low durability, particularly when wet, and a tendency to wrinkle and shrink. The sustainability of viscose depends heavily on its manufacturing process. While its source is renewable, the use of chemicals and potential for deforestation are significant environmental concerns. For applications requiring high strength, water resistance, or abrasion resistance, materials like cotton canvas and high-denier polyester or nylon are superior alternatives.
Your Next Step
Now that you have a complete picture of viscose fabric, you can make an informed decision. If the softness and drape of viscose are right for your apparel project, proceed with the care instructions in mind. If your project requires durability, strength, or structure, viscose is not the correct material. We recommend you explore our extensive selection of cotton duck canvas and high-denier synthetic fabrics to find the perfect material for your needs.