This sewing glossary decodes common sewing terms, lingo, and slang to help you confidently understand patterns, tutorials, and sewing instructions. Whether you’re a beginner just starting out or an experienced sewist looking to expand your knowledge, understanding sewing terminology is essential for successful sewing projects. We’ve compiled clear definitions, examples, and even some fun facts to make learning enjoyable.
Basic Sewing Terms
What are the essential sewing terms every beginner should know?
These foundational terms form the bedrock of sewing knowledge:
Seam allowance: This is the distance between the seam line and the raw edge of the fabric. A standard seam allowance is often 5/8 of an inch, but it can vary depending on the project.
Grain: The grain refers to the direction of the threads in the fabric. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage, while the crosswise grain runs perpendicular to it.
Selvage: The selvage is the tightly woven edge of the fabric that prevents it from unraveling. It’s often a different color or texture than the rest of the fabric. The term “selvage” has its roots in the Old English word “self-edge,” which literally means “self-finished edge.”
Bias: The bias refers to the diagonal direction of the fabric, at a 45-degree angle to the grain. Fabric cut on the bias has more stretch and drape.
Dart: A dart is a triangular fold sewn into fabric to create shape and contour, often used in garments to fit curves like bustlines or waistlines.
Notch:Notches are small marks or cuts along the edge of a sewing pattern that help align different pattern pieces.
Gather:Gathering is a technique that creates fullness in fabric by shortening the length of a section, often used to create ruffles or puffed sleeves.
Pleat: A pleat is a fold in the fabric that is either pressed or stitched in place, used for decoration or to add volume. Common types of pleats include knife pleats, box pleats, and accordion pleats.
Hem: A hem is a finished edge on a piece of fabric that prevents it from fraying. It’s usually created by folding the edge over and stitching it down.
Facing: A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish the raw edge of a garment, such as a neckline or armhole. It’s often cut from the same fabric as the garment but can also be a contrasting fabric.
Interfacing:Interfacing is a layer of material added to the inside of a garment to provide structure and support. It comes in different weights and stiffnesses depending on the desired effect.
Pro Tips:
When sewing a skirt, we need to pay attention to the grainline to ensure the fabric hangs correctly.
To create a fitted bodice, we use darts to shape the fabric to the body’s curves.
A hem is essential for finishing the raw edge of a pair of pants.
Types of Seams
What are the different types of seams in sewing?
Seams are the backbone of any sewing project, and understanding the different types is crucial:
Straight stitch: The most basic seam, created by a single line of stitching. It’s used for joining two pieces of fabric together.
Zigzag stitch: A stitch that goes back and forth in a zigzag pattern. It’s used for finishing raw edges to prevent fraying or for sewing stretchy fabrics.
French seam: A strong and durable seam that encloses the raw edges of the fabric within the seam itself. It’s often used for sheer fabrics or garments where the inside of the seam will be visible.
Flat-felled seam: Another strong seam that’s commonly used in denim and menswear. It involves folding and pressing the seam allowances to create a flat, finished seam.
Different seam types are used for different purposes and fabrics. A French seam is ideal for lightweight or sheer fabrics because it creates a clean finish, while a flat-felled seam is more suitable for heavier fabrics or areas that will experience a lot of wear and tear.
Benefits and Drawbacks:
Seam Type
Benefits
Drawbacks
French Seam
Strong, durable, clean finish
Can be bulky on thick fabrics
Serged Seam
Quick and easy, prevents fraying
Not as durable as other seam types
Sewing Tools and Equipment
What tools and equipment do we need for sewing?
Having the right tools can make sewing more enjoyable and efficient. Here are some essentials:
Sewing machine: A sewing machine is a mechanical device that uses a needle and thread to stitch fabric together. There are different types of sewing machines, including domestic machines for home use, industrial machines for heavy-duty sewing, and sergers for finishing seams.
Scissors: We use different types of scissors for sewing, including fabric shears for cutting fabric, pinking shears for finishing edges, and embroidery scissors for delicate work.
Needles: We use needles for both hand sewing and machine sewing. Hand sewing needles come in various sizes and types, while machine needles are specific to the type of sewing machine and fabric being used.
Pins:Pins are used to hold fabric pieces together while sewing.
Measuring tools: Accurate measurements are essential in sewing. We use tape measures for taking body measurements and measuring fabric, and rulers for marking patterns and seam allowances.
Seam ripper: A seam ripper is a small tool used to remove stitches.
Serger: A serger is a specialized sewing machine that trims, stitches, and overcasts the seam simultaneously, creating a professional-looking finish. Sergers are particularly useful for sewing knit fabrics and finishing seams on garments.
Popular brands of sewing machines include Singer, Bernina, and Brother.
Sewing supplies can be purchased at fabric stores like Joann Fabrics and Mood Fabrics, as well as online retailers like CanvasETC.com.
Fabric Glossary
What are the common types of fabrics used in sewing?
The world of fabrics is vast and varied. Here’s a glimpse into some common types:
Natural fibers: These fibers come from plants or animals and include cotton, linen, silk, and wool.
Synthetic fibers: These fibers are manufactured from chemicals and include polyester, nylon, and acrylic.
Blends: Many fabrics are blends of natural and synthetic fibers, combining the benefits of both.
Woven fabrics: These fabrics are created by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other. Examples include denim, broadcloth, and satin.
Knit fabrics: These fabrics are made by looping yarns together. Examples include jersey, rib knit, and interlock knit.
Woven fabrics and knit fabrics have distinct characteristics. Woven fabrics are generally more stable and less prone to stretching, while knit fabrics are more flexible and have more drape.
CanvasETC.com offers a variety of fabrics, including canvas, duck cloth, and denier. Canvas is a plain-woven fabric known for its durability, commonly used for items like bags, tents, and artist canvases. Duck cloth is a type of canvas with a tighter weave, making it even more robust. Denier refers to the thickness of the yarn used in fabrics like nylon and polyester, with higher denier numbers indicating thicker yarns and more durable fabrics.
You can find a wide variety of canvas fabrics with different weights and finishes at CanvasETC.com. For example, they offer:
The sewing community has its own unique language, full of quirky terms and slang:
Frogging: This means to rip out stitches, often because of a mistake. The term comes from the sound a seam ripper makes, which resembles a frog croaking (“rip-it, rip-it”).
Stash: A sewist’s collection of fabrics is often referred to as their “stash.”
UFO: This stands for “unfinished object” and refers to a sewing project that has been started but not completed.
WISP: This stands for “work in slow progress” and describes a project that’s being worked on gradually, perhaps due to other commitments or a lack of sewing time.
Toile: (Pronounced “twahl”) This is a French term for a test garment, often made from inexpensive fabric, used to check the fit and design of a pattern before cutting into the final fabric.
Muslin: Similar to a toile, a muslin is a test garment made from muslin fabric, a plain-woven cotton fabric that is inexpensive and readily available.
BASTing:** Temporary stitches used to hold fabric pieces together before final sewing.
Basting stitch: A long, loose stitch used for basting.
Clip: To make small cuts into seam allowances, especially around curves, to allow the fabric to lie flat.
Grade: To trim seam allowances to different widths to reduce bulk.
Notch: To make small cuts or marks along a seam allowance to help match pattern pieces or indicate sewing lines.
Pivot: To turn the fabric while sewing, keeping the needle down, to change direction.
Press: To use an iron to flatten seams and creases.
Seam ripper: A small tool used to remove stitches.
Selvage: The finished edge of a woven fabric that prevents it from unraveling.
Stay stitch: A row of stitching used to stabilize a curved edge and prevent it from stretching.
Top stitch: A row of stitching visible on the right side of the fabric, often used for decoration or reinforcement.
Understitch: A row of stitching that attaches a facing or lining to the seam allowance, preventing it from rolling to the outside.
These slang terms often arise from the shared experiences and humor within the sewing community, adding a touch of personality and camaraderie to the craft. For example, “frogging” originated from the sound a seam ripper makes when ripping out stitches, which resembles a frog croaking (“rip-it, rip-it”).
Sewing Techniques
What are some essential sewing techniques?
Beyond basic seams, there are numerous techniques that allow us to create different shapes, textures, and effects in our sewing projects:
Gathering: Gathering involves shortening the length of a piece of fabric to create fullness. It’s often used to create ruffles, gathers in sleeves, or fullness in skirts.
Pleating: Pleating involves folding the fabric in a specific way to create decorative or functional folds. Different types of pleats include knife pleats, box pleats, and accordion pleats.
Darts: Darts are triangular folds sewn into fabric to create shape and contour, especially in garments to accommodate curves.
For detailed instructions on sewing techniques, we recommend visiting websites like Tilly and the Buttons (tillyandthebuttons.com) and Colettehq (colettehq.com), which offer comprehensive tutorials and online workshops.
Pattern Making Terms
What are some common pattern making terms?
Understanding pattern making terms is crucial for accurately interpreting and using sewing patterns:
Grainline: The grainline arrow on a pattern piece indicates how to align the pattern piece with the lengthwise grain of the fabric.
True bias: The true bias is the 45-degree angle to the grainline, where the fabric has the most stretch.
Ease: Ease refers to the amount of extra room added to a pattern to allow for movement and comfort.
Apex: The highest point of a dart or curve.
Armscye: The armhole opening in a garment.
Bust point: The fullest part of the bust.
CB: Center back.
CF: Center front.
Dart: A triangular fold sewn into fabric to create shape and contour.
Ease: The amount of extra room added to a pattern to allow for movement and comfort.
Facing: A piece of fabric used to finish a raw edge, such as a neckline or armhole.
Grain: The direction of the threads in a woven fabric.
Hem: The finished edge of a garment.
Interfacing: A layer of material added to the inside of a garment to provide structure and support.
Lining: A layer of fabric that covers the inside of a garment.
Nap: The raised surface of a fabric, such as velvet or corduroy.
Notch: A small cut or mark on a pattern piece used for alignment.
Seam allowance: The distance between the seam line and the raw edge of the fabric.
Selvage: The finished edge of a woven fabric that prevents it from unraveling.
Stay stitch: A row of stitching used to stabilize a curved edge and prevent it from stretching.
True bias: The 45-degree angle to the grainline, where the fabric has the most stretch.
Understitch: A row of stitching that attaches a facing or lining to the seam allowance, preventing it from rolling to the outside.
Sewing patterns come in various forms, including commercial patterns from companies like Simplicity and McCall’s, independent patterns from designers like Tilly and the Buttons and Colette Patterns, and vintage patterns.
Sewing Resources
Where can we learn more about sewing?
There are numerous resources available to help sewists of all levels improve their skills and expand their knowledge:
Online sewing communities: Online communities like Reddit’s r/sewing provide a platform for sewists to connect, share tips, and ask questions.
Sewing blogs and websites: Many blogs and websites offer sewing tutorials, patterns, and inspiration.
Sewing books and magazines: Books and magazines can provide in-depth instruction on specific techniques or projects.
Local sewing classes and workshops: In-person classes and workshops offer hands-on learning and the opportunity to interact with other sewists.
The American Sewing Guild (ASG) is a national non-profit organization dedicated to promoting sewing education and community. They offer resources, classes, and events for sewists of all levels.
A Deeper Dive into Sewing
Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s explore some related concepts that can enhance your sewing journey.
Understanding Fabric Weight
Fabric weight is a crucial factor to consider when choosing materials for your sewing projects. It affects the drape, durability, and overall look of the finished garment. Fabric weight is typically measured in ounces per square yard (oz/yd²) or grams per square meter (g/m²).
Lightweight fabrics (typically less than 4 oz/yd² or 135 g/m²) are often sheer and flowy, making them suitable for garments like blouses, scarves, and lingerie. Examples include chiffon, voile, and silk.
Medium-weight fabrics (4-7 oz/yd² or 135-238 g/m²) are versatile and can be used for a wide range of garments, including dresses, shirts, and skirts. Examples include cotton poplin, linen, and gabardine.
Heavyweight fabrics (over 7 oz/yd² or 238 g/m²) are more durable and structured, making them suitable for outerwear, pants, and upholstery. Examples include denim, canvas, and corduroy.
Choosing the right fabric weight is essential for achieving the desired look and functionality of your sewing project. A lightweight fabric might be perfect for a flowing summer dress, while a heavyweight fabric would be more suitable for a winter coat.
Exploring Different Sewing Machine Types
Sewing machines come in a variety of types, each designed for specific purposes and skill levels.
Mechanical sewing machines: These are the most basic type of sewing machine, operated manually using dials and levers. They are often more affordable and easier to maintain than computerized machines.
Computerized sewing machines: These machines offer a wider range of stitch options and features, including automatic buttonholes, needle threading, and stitch memory. They are often more expensive than mechanical machines but offer greater versatility and convenience.
Sergers: As mentioned earlier, sergers are specialized sewing machines that trim, stitch, and overcast seams simultaneously. They are particularly useful for sewing knit fabrics and creating professional-looking finishes.
Embroidery machines: These machines are designed specifically for embroidery, allowing you to create intricate designs and patterns on fabric.
Understanding the different types of sewing machines can help you choose the right one for your needs and sewing goals.
The Importance of Pressing in Sewing
Pressing is an often overlooked but crucial step in sewing. It involves using an iron to flatten seams, creases, and wrinkles, ensuring a professional-looking finish. Pressing as you sew helps to create crisp edges, prevent puckering, and ensure that your garment pieces fit together correctly.
Here are some key pressing techniques:
Pressing seams open: This involves pressing the seam allowances to either side of the seam line, creating a flat and smooth seam.
Pressing seams to one side: This involves pressing the seam allowances to one side of the seam line, often towards the back of the garment.
Top pressing: This involves pressing the seam from the right side of the fabric, using a pressing cloth to protect the fabric from the heat of the iron.
Proper pressing techniques can significantly elevate the quality of your sewing projects.
Sewing for Different Skill Levels
Sewing is a craft that can be enjoyed by people of all ages and skill levels.
Beginner projects: For those new to sewing, starting with simple projects like tote bags, pillowcases, or scarves can help build confidence and foundational skills.
Intermediate projects: Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can move on to more challenging projects like dresses, shirts, or quilts.
Advanced projects: Experienced sewists can tackle complex garments like tailored jackets, formal wear, or intricate costumes.
There are countless resources available to help you learn and grow as a sewist, including online tutorials, sewing classes, and books.
The Environmental Impact of Sewing
As with any industry, sewing has an environmental impact. The production of fabrics, particularly synthetic fabrics, can involve the use of harmful chemicals and consume significant amounts of energy and water.
However, there are ways to make your sewing more sustainable:
Choose natural fibers: Opt for fabrics made from natural fibers like cotton, linen, or silk, which are biodegradable and often require less processing than synthetic fibers.
Upcycle and repurpose: Give new life to old clothes or fabrics by upcycling or repurposing them into new garments or accessories.
Reduce waste: Be mindful of fabric consumption and try to minimize waste by using scraps for smaller projects or quilting.
Support sustainable brands: Choose to purchase fabrics and sewing supplies from companies that prioritize ethical and sustainable practices.
Mastering the Vocabulary of Sewing:
This glossary has provided a comprehensive overview of essential sewing terms, common lingo, and quirky slang used in the sewing community. By familiarizing yourself with these terms, you gain the ability to confidently interpret sewing patterns, follow tutorials, and navigate the world of sewing with greater ease.
Remember, choosing the appropriate fabric and sewing tools is paramount for achieving the desired outcome in your projects. Consider the fabric weight, fiber content, and intended use when selecting materials. Explore the diverse range of sewing machines available, from basic mechanical models to specialized sergers and embroidery machines, to find the perfect fit for your sewing needs.
Practice various sewing techniques to expand your skillset and achieve different effects in your creations. Whether it’s mastering different types of seams, creating gathers or pleats, or adding finishing touches like facings and hems, each technique contributes to the overall quality and appearance of your finished garment.
Don’t forget the importance of proper pressing throughout the sewing process to achieve crisp seams and professional-looking results. And as you embark on your sewing journey, consider the environmental impact of your choices. Opt for sustainable practices like using natural fibers, upcycling fabrics, and supporting eco-conscious brands.
Now that you’re equipped with a deeper understanding of sewing terminology, it’s time to put your knowledge into practice! Visit CanvasETC.com to explore our wide selection of high-quality fabrics and start creating your next sewing masterpiece.
